A landscape of rolling grassy hills and oak woodlands is typical in this part of Contra Costa County -- nearby Briones and Mount Wanda offer similar profiles. But unlike those parks, Carquinez Strait Regional Shoreline, perched above its namesake channel, offers unobstructed views of Suisun Bay, Benicia, and southern Solano County.
     The main section of this 2,800 acre park stretches from John Muir National Historic Site and Highway 4 to Carquinez Strait, but there's a separate, smaller parcel near Port Costa. The Bay Trail has proposed a segment running along the north edge of Carquinez Strait Regional Shoreline, and part of the Bay Area Ridge Trail cuts through the park.
     Beginning a hike at the Nejedly Staging Area, a short distance from Martinez, is convenient but does present some challenges. This is one trailhead where people hang out in the parking lot all day long, so be sure to lock your car, and hiking alone is not recommended. Once you start into the park you'll find a choice of three routes to the ridge, all somewhat steep, with California Riding and Hiking Trail the most extreme. The three trails nearly meet along the ridge, and from a quick series of junctions you can select a loop or out-and-back trek. Since cattle range through the shoreline park, trails can be muddy during the wettest months of the year. I usually avoid these mostly exposed slopes in the summer, but recently I had a terrific hike during a breezy August day when the temperatures lingered around 70 degrees.
     Begin at the gated Rankin Park Trail, which starts near a picnic table. On the other side of the cattle gate the trail splits at a signed junction. Turn left (although the other leg is an option). The narrow trail, open to hikers and equestrians, begins a steep ascent under shade of coast live oak and California bay, with poison oak, monkeyflower, and coyote brush in the understory. After an intial uphill stretch, the trail makes a sharp right and climbs along the property boundary, with a cemetery visible on the left. Sunny patches yield a few toyon shrubs, and a mark a transition to grassy oak woodland, with a few buckeye and many gorgeous blue oaks prominent along the trail. At 0.18 mile, there's a bench off the trail to the right. In summer yellow star thistle is common, overtaking the grassland. At 0.20 mile, the path bends left, passes through a cattle gate, and meets a fire road. Turn right to continue uphill, still on Rankin Park Trail.
     Sharp eyed hikers might notice a few fruit and olive trees on the left, mixed through poison oak and toyon, as well as blue, valley, and coast live oak. The broad multi-use trail climbs at a moderate grade, curving uphill. You'll pass through another cattle gate, then make a final press toward the ridge. Buckeyes huddle together downslope on the left, and oaks taper off as grassland takes over. In summer, tarweed tints entire hillsides yellow. At 0.67 mile you'll reach a signed junction and the end of Rankin Park Trail. Turn right onto California Riding and Hiking Trail.
     The trail, open to hikers, equestrians, and cyclists, rises through grassland, then descends easily to a signed junction at 0.80 mile. Turn left onto Franklin Ridge Loop Trail.
     At a somewhat steep pitch, the multi-use trail descends through grassland. Look for buckwheat blooming on the hillside to the right in summer. At 1.00 mile, the trail reaches a saddle and an unmarked junction. Trails straight and to the left dead-end at the park border. Turn right to remain on Franklin Ridge Loop Trail.
     The trail descends steadily as it continues its circuit around the ridge. A seasonal creek on the left sustains a mixture of California bay, buckeye, poison oak, and coast live, valley, and blue oaks. Some patches of sagebrush, coyote brush, monkeyflower, and toyon coat the lower slopes of the grassy hillside on the right. At 1.74 miles, a spur continues straight to Carquinez Scenic Drive, while Franklin Ridge Loop Trail veers right at an unsigned junction. Turn right.
     Lost elevation is quickly regained on a very steep stretch through pretty oaks. With every step there are increasingly long views north, to Carquinez Strait and then Benicia. Gradually vegetation shifts to poison oak and coyote brush-dotted grassland. Still skirting downslope of ridgeline, the trail eases up to a moderate climb. At 1.96 miles, look for a small unsigned but obvious path on the left. Turn left (this is optional).
     On my summer hike as I walked through the grassland yellow star thistles jabbed at my ankles and calves, and lizards skittered about. The path rises to a hilltop and bench, ending at 2.07 miles. This is a nice place for lunch (although there is another bench a short distance further on the loop trail, just off the trail). When ready, retrace your steps back to Franklin Ridge Loop Trail, then turn left.
     The ascent is easy here, and the views outstanding. On clear days you should be able to see quite a distance east, but even in the summer haze southern Solano County and the Benicia-Martinez Bridge should be visible. You may be captivated by the progress of tugboats bullying freighters through the strait. At an unsigned junciton at 2.21 miles, a dead-end trail departs on the left, leading to a picnic table. Continue straight.
     With no shade along the trail, it can get quite hot in summer, and even an infrequent breeze makes all the difference between swelting and mild. Look for raptors casing the hillsides on the right. At 2.74 miles, another dead-end trail sets off on the left, the junction unmarked. Continue straight.
     The trail eschews a straight line and follows a curvaceous route uphill through grassland. Look back for a nice view of a single graceful oak on the ridge. At 2.96 miles, one last unsigned dead-end trail starts on the left. Continue straight, but a few feet later, at a signed junction at 2.98 miles, you'll reach California Riding and Hiking Trail again. Turn left.
     Although this trail is very steep and narrow, it is a multi-use segment of the Bay Area Ridge Trail. After a short drop through grassland, California Riding and Hiking Trail adopts a course along a seasonal creek, shaded by California bay, buckeye, Coast live, and blue oaks. Watch out for poison oak, which is common. The trail maintains a steep grade through a patch of sagebrush, monkeyflower, and toyon, then tapers off as it turns right to rejoin the creekbed. There's one final sharp stretch, then the trail cuts left and almost completely levels out. You might notice a few ash trees along the trail. Finally, you'll step out of the woods and follow the trail through grassland. At 3.42 miles California Riding and Hiking Trail ends at a gate on the edge of the parking lot.

Total distance: 3.42 miles
Last hiked: Thursday, August 22, 2002

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