Don Edwards San Francisco Bay National Wildlife Refuge, with over 23,000 acres, proclaims itself the largest urban wildlife refuge in the country. Most of the refuge stretches along the marshy shoreline north and south of the Dumbarton Bridge, but Bair Island, in San Mateo County, is also part of the system. The refuge's headquarters are located at the edge of industrial Newark, and some of its wetlands are salt ponds managed by Cargill Salt. From the Visitor Center two trails depart: one a short and easy self-guided loop, and the other a 5 mile flat circuit around the salt ponds. The two can easily be strung together for a 6+ mile tour, perfect for a daily run or easy walk.
     Start at the edge of the parking lot and begin walking up the paved trail toward the Visitor Center. After a few steps a gravel path veers off to the right, marked by a restrooms sign. Turn right. The path soon ends at a paved road and signed junction. Cross the road and go straight, following a sign for the Learning Center. After about 350 feet you'll reach a signed junction just before an interpretive display. Turn right, toward Tidelands Trail and Pavilion. The gravel path descends a bit, then turns sharply left (a path to the Learning Center breaks off to the right). A tangle of blackberry vines sprawls on the right and fennel is common all around. The trail transitions to an elevated boardwalk above a sea of pickleweed. When the boardwalk passes over Newark Slough, look in the water for snowy and great egrets. A little red building on the right serves as a picnic shelter. At 0.25 mile, the boardwalk ends at a signed T junction. Turn right.
      Newark Slough Loop Trail begins a long circuit around a series of salt ponds. Depending on the season and the stage of salt development, the water may range from green to mauve. When I visited in late June these ponds echoed the colors of a sunset; violet in the deepest water and burnt orange at the shoreline, with a thick crust of salt encircling them like a rimmed margarita glass. Avocets, stilts, terns, and swallows were all common on my early summer hike, and according to the refuge's bird checklist, a variety of other birds can be spotted, from the endangered clapper rail to white pelicans to kites, hawks, ospreys, and eagles. Trailside vegetation is sparse, and consists mostly of salt-loving ground cover like pickleweed and alkali heath, which boasts tiny purple flowers in summer. The initial miles of Newark Slough Trail run between the slough and salt ponds, with nice views north to Coyote Hills, and west to the Santa Cruz Mountains. Unfortunately traffic noise from CA 84 is noisy and constant, although as the trail bends south you'll enter a quieter area of the refuge. The trail remains perfectly flat. When I visited the southernmost shoreline was the saltiest, and even the trail surface was coated in places with a thick layer of crystals that crunched underfoot. Walking east you'll have good views of Mission Peak and Walpert Ridge, home to Garin/Dry Creek Pioneer Park. Near some Cargill Salt buildings the trail passes around a gate and takes a sharp turn left. On the right a depressingly barren field buffers noise from Thornton Avenue. At 4.32 miles Newark Slough Loop Trail heads left, while a dirt road veers right. You'll pass around another gate and return to a more peaceful area, once more traveling between Newark Slough and the salt ponds. At 5.04 miles you'll reach a signed junction near a picnic table. Turn right onto Tidelands Trail.
     A bridge passes over Newark Slough, then return to solid ground. Ignore a few shortcut trails and follow Tidelands Trail to the left as it climbs easily through grassland dotted with buckwheat, California poppy, horehound, and mustard. At 5.17 miles you'll reach an interpretive display and a junction. Stay to the right on Tidelands Trail.
     The trail ascends slightly, passes a closed trail on the left, then curves left and drops through an area with nonnative vegetation including century plant. Squirrels are common in this part of the refuge. At 5.37 miles a spur trail heads right from a signed junction. Stay to the left on Tidelands Trail. As the broad trail ascends, you might notice toyon mixed through the grassland, along with coyote brush and a few acacia trees. At 5.44 miles Harrier Trail slips off to the right. Continue straight on Tidelands Trail. Persisting uphill at an easy grade, the trail features interpretive displays every so often. In summer look for butterflies feeding on buckwheat plants. At 5.62 miles trails depart to the left and right, but continue straight a few steps further, to the hilltop. Take a short flight of steps uphill on the left, where at about 5.68 miles you'll reach a lookout and the refuge's highest elevation. When you're ready go back down the stairs, then turn left.
     Tidelands Trail descends, with sagebrush common along the trail. At 5.74 miles stay to the right as another trail feeds in from the left. The trail shifts from dirt to pavement just before the Visitor Center. Follow the pavement back downhill to a junction at 5.90 miles. Turn right and retrace your steps back to the trailhead.

Total distance: 5.93 miles
Last hiked: Friday, June 28, 2002

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