CA 1 runs directly along the coastline for about 16 miles from Bodega Bay to Jenner, permitting easy admiration and exploration of the ocean and beaches from many pullouts and parking lots along the road. Most of this shoreline is protected land, managed by the California State Park system, and the series of beaches and bluffs is collectively known as the Sonoma Coast State Beaches. The "beach" has campgrounds, and plenty of shoreline access, but there are only three park units with substantial hiking options. Kortum Trail runs along the bluff from Wright's Beach to Goat Rock Beach; a network of trails wander sand dunes between Bodega Harbor and South Salmon Creek Beach; and at Bodega Head, a trail loops around high headlands and climbs to an overlook (the dunes trails and Bodega Head Trail do connect, but most people hike them separately). Bodega Head is by far the most popular trail, even though it is a bit hard to find -- once you turn off CA 1, there are no signs directing visitors to the trailhead, which is nearly 4 miles from the highway. This trailhead is likely so popular because it offers dazzling ocean views from a trail extending north and south along the bluff, as well as access to a small sandy beach. In spring, the wildflower display is wonderful, and sea breezes usually keep this part of Sonoma County considerably cool even when the rest of the Bay Area is baking under summer heat. Bring binoculars in winter, and scan the waters for migrating whales.
     Begin on signed Bodega Head Trail, which sets off from the north side of the parking lot. After passing a picnic table, the slight path forks, with the trail to the left descending to the small beach. Continue straight, and begin to climb easily, through typical coastal vegetation, including sea fig, lizardtail, and purple and yellow bush lupine. You'll likely see California poppy, paintbrush, and yarrow blooming along the trail in spring, with a few flowers lingering into summer, when buckwheat and seaside daisy are common. Some paths depart to the left, for a closer look at the coastline from a patch of bare sandstone, but the official trail is marked occasionally with wooden posts. As Bodega Head ascends, there are sweeping views west to the ocean, where you might see fishing boats bobbing on the water, and brown pelicans dashing into the sea for a snack. There were several egrets hunting on the bluffs on my visit, and many small birds picking seeds off mustard and wild radish plants. Some of the rocks jutting out from and around the trail resembling granite are classified as Bodega Head Quartz diorite. At 0.36 mile, you'll reach a junction -- the trail to the right descends, crossing U.C. property on the way to the dunes trails. Continue straight, toward the Horseshoe Cove Overlook.
      The path heads north across the bluff's highest reaches, at a nearly level grade. Here, the terrain is mostly wind-swept rocky grassland, where lots of poppies huddle close to the ground in spring. At 0.56 mile, you'll reach the end of the trail and the overlook, a rock-studded promontory with excellent views, particularly to the north and west. Most conspicuous to the immediate north is Horseshoe Cove and the U.C. Marine Lab's complex, but on a clear day you can see to the coastal bluffs north of Jenner. Be careful near the clusters of rocks, since poison oak nestles in the spaces between boulders, mixed through Oregon grape. I saw a herd of 12 deer browsing off in the distance on my hike. When ready, retrace your steps back to the parking lot.
      Now, walk across the parking lot and pick up the southern leg of Bodega Head Trail, an unsigned path beginning to the left of the vault toilets. The path heads toward a lonely cluster of cypress, then forks -- stay to the right and continue toward the ocean, where you'll reach the fishermen's memorial, a low cluster of cement blocks and a helm, arranged to resemble the bow of a ship. Veer left and begin to follow the path directly at the edge of the bluff. In spring, big colonies of iris, paintbrush, seaside daisy, and buckwheat brighten this coastal prairie. You might see northern harriers scanning the grassland, which offers good hunting since sheltering shrubs to hide small mammals are scarce. The views are breathtaking -- these steep sided bluffs drop directly to the ocean, where birds perch on rock formations even as the outcrops are pounded by waves. Stay well back from the bluff edge, particularly during winter, when terrain, weakened by storms, can be unstable. Bodega Head Trail keeps to a nearly level grade until the southern edge of the headlands, where as the trail turns to the east, it gently wobbles up and down a bit. A viewpoint here on the right offers a perfect vantage point south, across the ocean to Tomales Point, with Mount Wittenberg in the distance. Trailside vegetation shifts to a somewhat overgrown mix of mustard, wild radish, and bush lupine, and in summer the annual plants (mustard and radish) crowd the trail. You might hear sea lions and/or barking close by -- a little island to the south was teeming with them when I hiked here in September. Past a white and red nautical beacon, views shift east across Bodega Harbor, and include the campgrounds at Doran Park. In summer look for anise swallowtails fluttering above clusters of Queen Anne's lace, one of the swallowtail's favorite plants. At 2.50 miles the trail reaches Bodega Head's second parking lot, which gets considerably less use than the lot at the main trailhead. The park map shows a trail skirting the lot to the right, but this junction wasn't signed on my visit, and there were a few worn paths to choose from. Poke around for that trail if you like, but it's just as easy to walk down the park road. Descending easily, the gravel road travels north to a gated junction at 2.8 miles. Turn left.
     Almost immediately the trail forks -- bear right. The path descends slightly through a drainage basin. In winter and spring this path may be muddy or downright impassable; if so the other trail leg is an option. When you arrive at the cluster of cypress, stay to the right and take one of several paths that lead back toward the main trail to the parking lot.

Total distance: 3.0 miles
Last hiked: Friday, September 5, 2003


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