Tubbs Island, part of the San Pablo Bay National Wildlife Refuge, is home to an astounding assortment of wildlife. Throughout 13,000 acres of salt marsh, mudflats, freshwater wetlands, and uplands, you might see jackrabbits, hawks, pelicans, ducks, avocets, swifts, egrets, stilts, and endangered creatures like the clapper rail and salt marsh harvest mouse. These year-round residents are joined in autumn by migratory ducks and shorebirds, and the raptor population swells to include falcons, kestrels, kites, and northern harriers. Larger mammals roam the marsh as well, but you will probably only see their footprints. Although there are a few farms on the outskirts of the refuge, and CA 37 is rarely out of earshot, Tubbs Island feels very remote.
     Hiker "El Rayo" suggested this Tubbs Island visit, and you might well consider his warning about conditions during the wet months: "pick your day carefully -- mud, mud, mud." It's best to wait a few days after winter and spring rains before visiting. Although autumn and early winter are the best seasons for birdwatching, this is also hunting season at San Pablo Bay National Wildlife Refuge. I like summer, when unlike practically every other landscape in the bay area the marsh is still green, and trails are cooled by breezes blowing off the bay.
     Begin at the gated fire road. The wide trail, open to hikers and cyclists, runs along a levee, then curves left and descends a few feet to an information signboard and picnic table. Bordered on the right by a tall levee blocking any views west, the trail heads south through a mixture of invasive thistles, coyote brush, dock, and fennel. In August dry strawberry blond mustard plants rustle in the wind. You might see empty shotgun shells littered on the ground. The trail sweeps right, all the while keeping a level pace. In adjacent farmland to the left look for jackrabbits (and hawks) when the fields are shorn in summer. One stretch of trail hosts a bonanza of nightshade. Another turn, this time to the left, angles the route south again. The levee's scrim drops a bit to nearly head-level, and there are some views into the marsh on the right. Look for pickleweed, gumplant, and New Zealand spinach. At 2.59 miles, you'll reach a junction and information signboard, just before a little protected bay, on the left. White pelicans are commonly spotted on the water, or flying overhead in airshow formation. Continue straight to a signed junction at 2.64 miles, then stay to the left on Bay Trail.
     On my visit there were jackrabbits running up and down the trail, and egrets and great blue herons wading through the marsh on the right. At 2.96 miles, you'll reach an unsigned T junction with a closed trail. Turn right to remain on Bay Trail.
     Clinging to the shoreline, the trail winds through fennel, wild radish, yellow star thistle, and mustard. When the skies are clear, there are views across San Pablo Bay to all the substantial mountains of eastern Marin County. You'll likely see some shorebirds and egrets picking through the mudflats on the left. In summer butterflies and dragonflies float through the air. Gradually the trail turns north, running parallel to a watery channel on the right popular with egrets and great blue herons. Coyote brush lines the trail. Mosquitoes can be a problem on still summer days. At 4.61 miles, an unsigned path heads east across the marsh. Continue straight/left, now on Wingspan Way.
     Ducks float on a broad waterway to the right, and avocets and stilts plod through muddy puddles on the left. If it's a race day at Sears Point you may be able to hear the action, along with car traffic from CA 37. On this trail in August, a hawk suddenly flew off from a spot along the trail, less than 20 feet away. When I got to the area, I peered into the pickleweed and saw a dismembered freshly-killed rabbit. I had interrupted lunch! No doubt the vultures would be by, happy with any leftovers. At 5.35 miles, you'll reach a previously encountered junction. Turn left and retrace your steps back to the trailhead.

Total distance: 8.05 miles
Last hiked: Tuesday, August 13, 2002


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