In contrast to the well-known gentle oceanside paths at Año Nuevo's main unit, where elephant seals annually mate and birth, the inland portion of the state reserve boasts stiff climbs through redwood forests and along creeks. A handful of trails and fire roads begin off Whitehouse and Gazos Creek Roads, in the section of Año Nuevo known as Cascade Ranch.
     Perhaps it's Whitehouse Ridge Trail's viewpoints that make a veteran south bay hiker think of (oddly enough) the Año Nuevo Trail at Butano State Park, just a few miles north. Both trails are steep (Whitehouse Trail the tougher of the two), but the luxuriant undergrowth that chokes Butano's trail is absent from Whitehouse, where a simple forest of redwood and tanoak dominates the landscape. And while Butano's vista points have become obscured by tree cover, at Whitehouse Ridge hikers can enjoy unobstructed views west to the ocean from perches on the edge of the hillside.
     Of course, for views like this, you'll pay in sweat as you climb out of a wooded canyon on a steep old-fashioned mountain goat trail. The ascent should pose no problems for seasoned hikers, but beware the quad-busting descent, especially in the damp months of autumn, winter, and spring, when wet leaves, rocks, and exposed roots make for a slippery trail surface. Sticky-soled shoes are a must, and a trekking pole will provide increased stability.
     Start at the signed Whitehouse Ridge Trailhead on the side of Whitehouse Road. The narrow hiking-only trail sets off uphill, plunging into a dense forest of redwood and tanoak, with pockets of lush ferns and carpets of redwood sorrel in the understory. After the first autumn rains, you'll likely see fresh mushrooms poking up through a thick layer of redwood duff, along with conspicuous yellow banana slugs and shy California newts. These tiny creatures in the salamander family are perfectly camouflaged for their annual treks to ponds and streams, with orange bellies and rust colored backs that blend into downed dead redwood branches and needles. The trail rises from a canyon floor littered with fallen trees, then dips sharply down to cross a stream. Huge redwood stumps stand sentinel along the creek, and there are relatively young trees working to attain the former stature of the logged giants. Whitehouse Trail begins climbing again, sustaining a steep grade. Even though there are occasional switchbacks, the abrupt corners seem to simply alter the course of the path, rather than soften the climb. After about 0.7 mile, you'll reach a signed junction. The path to the right visits the lower viewpoint, but unless you're ready to turn back now, you might skip the short detour, for the views further uphill are more dramatic. Turn left and continue to ascend on Whitehouse Ridge Trail.
      A relentless climb through redwoods continues. Blackened trunks, scorched only on one side, are evidence of a fire which swept downhill from the ridge, not too long ago. As Whitehouse Ridge Trail curves right, you'll pass from one side of the mountain to another, and the vegetation shifts. Douglas firs reach for the sky, with huckleberry and chinquapin in the understory. The trail takes a straight tack uphill, climbing along the edge of the hillside, with the canyon receding to the left. As you ascend, look on the sides of the trail for more chinquapin and a few canyon live oak, draped with pale green lacy lichen. Although you'll be drawing near to the ridgetop, Whitehouse Ridge Trail levels out and heads back into a dense stand of redwood. At about 1.2 miles, you'll reach a signed junction with the path to the Upper Vista Point. Turn right.
     A sign guides you past an initial clearing, and the narrow path squeezes through Douglas fir, madrone, yerba santa, California coffeeberry, ceanothus, and coast live oak. After a short, mostly level route, the path ends at a viewpoint. An interpretive sign indicates the location of the San Gregorio-Hosgri Fault Zone, and shows how Año Nuevo State Reserve connects to Big Basin State Park via Chalks Road, which starts at the end of Whitehouse Ridge Trail. On a clear day you'll have sweeping views west. Whitehouse Road should be visible, with the white tents of Costanoa obvious slightly to the north. Even if you're visiting on an overcast day, the murmur from the ocean should puncture any fog. When you're ready, retrace your steps back to the previous junction, at about 1.3 miles. Turn right, toward Chalks Road.
     I had wondered if there were manzanitas on the ridge, since chinquapin and manzanita are frequent neighbors. Sure enough, the trail quickly exits the woods at a level grade and emerges onto a manzanita barren. The ridgetop soil, "poor," white and chalky, supports manzanitas along with huckleberry and knobcone pine. You might also see chaparral pea, a rather plain evergreen shrub that puts forth stunning pink blossoms in late spring. There are magnificent views to the north, including the forested hillsides of Butano State Park. A small rocky bare spot makes a good lunch location if it's not too hot. Whitehouse Ridge Trail climbs briefly uphill on a grade with some loose rock, then drops and passes through a choked tangle of chinquapin, manzanita, huckleberry, and knobcone pine. At about 1.6 miles, Whitehouse Ridge Trail ends at a signed junction with Chalks Road. From here, you can walk on the broad fire road all the way to Big Basin's Chalk Mountain (turn left; the route is unsigned). The fire road to the right descends and then ends at a gate and private property. Retrace your steps back to the trailhead.

Total mileage: about 3.0 miles
Last hiked: Friday, November 16, 2001


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