McNee Ranch State Park is a beautiful, scenic, and surprising park. Comprised almost entirely of wide, multi-use fire roads, McNee Ranch lacks the facilities we expect from most state parks. No visitor center, signposts, or restrooms (although there is one portable toilet). It's even tough to park here! Instead of these niceties you will find steep, tough fire roads winding through a spectacular assortment of bay area plants, leading to a nearly 1900 foot peak with wonderful views.
     Accompanying the park's rugged character is unpredictable weather. Fog and cold temperatures blow in from the ocean with little warning. If you go, keep an eye on the fog and bring layers of clothing. Be prepared to cut your hike short if the weather changes.
     McNee Ranch is a favorite of bay area mountain bikers. Expect to share the trails, and stay alert for bikes blasting downhill as you climb. Equestrians are also often seen on the trails, but usually only on weekends.
     This is a park that shines in every season. Spring brings a cavalcade of wildflowers. Connecting trails allow you to hike into neighboring San Pedro Valley Park, where winter puts on a knockout waterfall show. During breaks between winter storms, the views are often clear, with none of the fog typical encountered in summer months. In summer and autumn, McNee Ranch is one of the best bay area parks to visit if you're in the mood for a cool climb. Ocean breezes keep things temperate, permitting the strenuous ascent to Montara Mountain's summit, while in the bay area's inland region temperatures push 100 degrees.
     The somewhat tough climb to North Peak gets top billing, but there's one other hike I'll recommend at McNee Ranch. Take Gray Whale Cove Trail north from the trailhead to the incredibly scenic rest bench facing west. This short and easy hike is a wonderful choice when you just need a short break from the world. Bring binoculars in the winter for whale watching.
     For the featured hike, start out on the gated (but unsigned) fire road. The wide flat gravel road (which is used as a road, so be alert for vehicles), lined with cypress, runs parallel to Martini Creek. At 0.21 mile, the road splits at an undersigned junction in front of the ranger's residence. Stay to the right on North Peak Access Road.
     After a few yards, the road, open to cyclists, equestrians, and hikers, leaves a few tall eucalyptus trees behind and enters grassland. Coyote brush, California sagebrush, bush lupine, poison oak, and fennel are abundant. As the steep ascent begins, the views east to the peaks greet you. Pampas grass, an invasive non-native, rustles if there is a breeze. A few more cypress provide occasional shade, along with some Monterey pine. Bush monkeyflower, with its cheerful orange flowers, can been seen almost everywhere on this hike. At 0.75 mile, the grade slacks off a bit, and Old Pedro Mountain Road heads back downhill on the left side of the road. There is no sign, but it's an obvious junction. Continue straight on North Peak Access Road.
     The fire road curves to the right and sweeps uphill. Poison oak accompanies California coffeeberry on the sides of the road. A unmarked path shoots downhill as the fire road switchbacks left. The path, which is not shown on the map, seems to be used primarily by cyclists. As you turn the corner on the fire road, another bike cut is visible to the left. Occasionally paved, North Peak Access Road climbs easily. Cypress and pines are left behind as you enter drier chaparral. A crashed car can be seen uphill on the right side of the road. At 1.32 miles, the fire road meets an unsigned (and not on the official map) trail. Marked by "no bikes on trail," signposts, the path connects to Gray Whale Cove Trail. Remain on the fire road.
     Views of the ocean, and north toward San Pedro Mountain and Devil's Slide, are awesome. Traffic noise is still audible; it will abate as you continue uphill on the steepest portion of North Peak Access Road. You may seen hummingbirds zipping through the sky or perched on branches of coyote brush. Sagebrush and monkeyflower line the road, which has turned to dirt for good. An unsigned path breaks off to the north on the left side of the trail at 1.41 miles. Continue on the fire road. A few steps later, Old Pedro Mountain Road sets out to the left at an unsigned junction. Continue straight on North Peak Access Road.
     There's no sugarcoating the climb: it is a relentless grade. On the way uphill, notice the rocks exposed by the roadcut. The light tan brown-colored sparkly stuff is granite. This section of the park is Montara Mountain Granite, while the rocks to the north are Paleocene sediments. The two meet at (guess where?) Devil's Slide, which is why every winter landslides occur at this contact zone. Just before the road crosses from the south side of the ridge to the north side, take a moment (or 5) to gaze at the peaks, and the dramatic crease of Martini Creek dropping downhill from the ridge. The fire road levels out a bit as you climb along the ridge. Ceanothus shrubs appear, along with California coffeeberry, and poison oak. An unsigned path sets out on the left side of the fire road. This overgrown and apparently unsanctioned trail heads north and connects with Old Pedro Mountain Road. Continue on the fire road. San Pedro Mountain is visible to the west, and to the north if it's clear you'll catch a view of Mount Tamalpais. On the sides of the fire road, ferns, poison oak, creambush, coyote brush, hazelnut, thimbleberry, huckleberry, and currant flourish. The distinctive silktassel shrub makes an occasional appearance. The grade picks up again and manzanitas, yerba santa, and chinquapin usher you along. At 2.53 miles, Montara Mountain Trail begins at a (finally!) signed junction on the left side of the road. The trail heads downhill into San Pedro Valley Park, but there is no corresponding uphill trail to create a loop. If you happen to be hiking in late winter, a side visit to view Brooks Falls is recommended. Continue to ascend on North Peak Access Road.
     Rock formations loom off the sides of the fire road. On two consecutive August hikes in 2000 and 2001, paintbrush, one the last lingering "spring" wildflowers along the coast, bloomed in the chaparral. The fire road continues to wind uphill toward the peaks. Mount Diablo, Sweeney Ridge, and San Francisco Bay may be visible to the east. On my first hike here, at about 1500 feet, right at the border with San Pedro Valley County Park, I turned around and headed back. The fog was quickly blowing east and I didn't fancy a descent through it. (Okay, to be honest I forgot my jacket. But by the time I descended to the picnic area, fog obscured everything above 300 feet. You probably won't get lost in the fog, but it'll be cold and you won't see much.) On my second visit, I was prepared for the fog; good thing, because the cold wind thickened as I continued to ascend. The grade is moderate, with a few short steep bits, but nothing as harsh as the previous hills. Vegetation clings to the ground, hunkered down but still surviving on the wind-whipped exposed mountain slopes. Bare patches of granite are visible. There's another wrecked car just off the trail on the right. At 3.54 miles, the fire road heads right, while another access road veers left. Continue to the right. As the fire roads draws near the park boundary, you might notice telephone poles and a few small buildings. When the weather permits lingering and clear views, some clear spots along the trail make nice lunch destinations. Of course, when it's foggy, as it was on my last hike, all views are obstructed. At 3.71 miles, the fire road ends at a locked gate to the peninsula watershed. Retrace your steps back to the junction with Old Pedro Mountain Road at 6.68 miles (the branch you passed way back at 0.75 mile, not the one near the ranger residence that heads north toward San Pedro Mountain). Turn right onto Old Pedro Mountain Road.
      Pampas grass chokes the sides of the paved multi-use trail, and watch out for poison oak, which grows with utter abandon throughout. Landslides have eroded the trail in sections, which winds downhill almost imperceptibly. Yet another old crashed car can be seen uphill to the right. Cypress trees line the trail in stretches. You may see deer in the valley to the left. At 7.67 miles, Old San Pedro Mountain Road continues downhill to the left, while a connector to Gray Whale Cove Trail heads uphill to the right. This junction is unsigned. (You can continue on Old Pedro Mountain Road if you want to use the primitive picnic area or portable toilet. Remain on the trail to the previously encountered junction with North Peak Access Road, then turn right to return to the trailhead.) Turn right and hike uphill, and at 7.74 miles, turn left onto Gray Whale Cove Trail. Closed to bicycles, Gray Whale Cove Trail hugs the bluff as it descends to the south, offering sweeping views of the ocean. Fences protect against shortcuts as the path curves downhill. Gray Whale Cove Trail reaches level ground, then turns west and runs within a few feet of the access road. At 8.04 miles, the trail ends at the trailhead.

Total distance: 8.04 miles
Last hiked: Monday, August 20, 2001


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